Tuesday, 6 January 2015

Day 22, 23, 24

So we kinda feel like we could have had an extra day in Phuket, but it's time to move on - time for another one of the small islands, Koh Phi Phi Don, by First Mate Joey.

The journey there couldn't have been easier, we got picked up from our hostel (by a slightly erratic driver) and taken to the pier where we got on a ferry for an hour and a half until we arrived. As the island and surrounding small islands (which are idyllically dotted around throughout the ocean) came into view, we could see why this place is considered one of the most beautiful regions. 


As the boat docked it was obvious that the island was packed, as we had to climb over our fellow passengers to get our backpacks and   then worm our way through everyone to get off the pier. We had to pay 20bht (40p) tax to enter the island - the first time we've had to do that on any of them so far. We knew that our resort called Phi Phi Don Chukit wasn't far from the pier as one of the ferry staff had kindly come round and advised everyone on how to find where they were staying. 

So we set off walking in the right direction (for once) and although we were both sweating our backs out carrying 40kg of baggage between us, and with Shaun's sunburn from the day before raging, we could tell that this busy little island was going to make us very happy for a few days. We'd had horrible expectations of Don Chuckit after reading reviews of it being like a soviet leisure camp, and of there being ants in the beds, however when we got to our room we were pleasantly surprised! We've decided that the best way to describe it is 70's Soviet Butlins. Not changed a bit since it was built - except maybe for the damage still visible as consequence of the tsunami in 2004.

As we were in Phuket on Boxing Day it was the 10 year anniversary of the tsunami which hit Thailand and vastly affected some of the places we've visited. We watched a few videos on YouTube of Phuket and Phi Phi being swept up by the tsunami and the devastation it caused really is unbelievable. Patong Beach on Phuket is the biggest beach we've seen on our trip so far. It compares to beaches in Spain or even America, so to see it totally overflow and the hotels along the front become flooded really showed us how big the tsunami was and the amount of lives it affected. Phi Phi on the other hand is one of the smallest islands we've been to and it has coasts surrounding it. Its shaped kind of like a dumbbell with a long(ish) strip of land and two blobs of land at either end all surrounded by water, so when it was hit by the tsunami it was pretty much submerged. We've heard that before the tsunami you could see through the middle of the island, which was basically a sandbank, from one side to another, and see the ocean on the other side. Now it's mayhem! A maze of little paved streets made up of shops and bars - all for tourism. We loved it how it is but before 2004 it was probably unrecognisable and much more naturally beautiful. 

Our first night consisted of drinking loads of Chang, whilst watching United vs Spurs in an English style Indie bar, and then going for a curry - proper British. 

The company we booked our transport through Thailand and Malaysia with include a few day trips along the way, and in Phi Phi we had a boat trip organised called a Sunset Tour. Sunset my arse. It pissed it down ALL day! The moment the boat set off black clouds engulfed the sky and it started to rain. The rain gradually turned into a storm, so after trying to brave it up on top deck, hoping it was just a shower, eventually we all took shelter on the bottom deck and accepted that we were in for a wet day. 

The first stop was to a monkey beach however with the rain, the monkeys had all taken shelter so we skipped this stop. Next we sailed to a lagoon where we snorkelled and kayaked. It was ace, even with the weather - obviously we were gonna get wet here anyway, and the rain didn't scare the fish away so we got to see some amazing stuff underwater. Next stop was to Maya Bay where the beach was filmed, which has now become a massive tourist attraction. It is still beautiful. As part of the National Park it's looked after and groomed daily so as to preserve it. The rain had died down quite a bit by this point and were able to take in our surroundings. It was almost evening by this point so when we got back aboard the Sunset Express we had some food that had been prepared throughout the day onboard, and set off back to Ton Sai Bay at Phi Phi Don. We did actually catch a brief glimpse of the sunset, but after the fun we'd had all day it didn't matter that the weather prevented a full view of it - the sun sets everyday and is usually stunning whether on a boat or not. 


We'd met some people on the boat during the day and made loose arrangements to meet up for drinks that night. Shaun and I hadn't been over to the other side of the island at night until then, and we soon realised that we were definitely staying on the tame side, even tamer than Tameside - thank god. The opposite bay was absolutely manic, most of the bars were playing heavy trance kind of music and gave out free buckets to naked lads and topless girls! Maybe up our street 7 years ago, but not so much now. We did a good bit of people watching, had a beer, got offered weed by one of the waiters and looked around for our new pals. We waited a bit but seeing as we didn't arrange a specific time it was a bit hopeless, so SK and I decided to go somewhere a little quieter for a bucket or 5. One thing I've learnt about Thailand is that buckets make me CRAZY. All is very blurry from then on but we had loadsa fun - we got tattoos! Through our Sangsom goggles we decided to get matching Thai tattoos which will always remind us of this amazing adventure forever. Mint. 

One of the funniest (secretly best) things about Don Chukit is that we had a twin room with separate beds. So when we wake up the next morning cramped into my single bed we looked over to Shauns to see that it was damp. Something we've learnt about buckets is that they make you lose control of your bladder! Hangover day was a write off. We stumbled to the Indie bar (still bladdered) as we knew it did proper English bacon and had a butty, then pretty much just hid in our cell for most of the day! We managed to successfully meet the guys we'd met on the boat for dinner that night, but had an early night as it was travel day yet again the next day.


Phi Phi has a bit of everything - beautiful beaches, crazy nightlife, good food and great people, making it one of my favourite islands. It's definitely been raped by tourism - there's no denying it, but it's charming in its own busy, scruffy little way, and after having visited lots of different islands, each one seems to have its own personality and appeals to me in some way. Back to the mainland tomorrow for New Years Eve - watch out Krabi.

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